Tuesday, June 26, 2012

Week 8: Cape Coasting

WEEK 8
June 19, 2012
Surprisingly, or NOT so surprisingly the light is off. Luckily it is one of those light up the night with the stars kind of nights. Thankfully the Lord blesses us with the beauty of his creations when man made things cannot help us out. The problem with me sitting here and typing this is that the bugs are attracted to the light and they are flying all over me making me want to scream! Tonight we had two day old Gardener Stew…I could hardly get it down because my brain made it taste way too much like the mackerel we had for every meal the first week we were here but I ate it anyway so that I would not be hungry later. Rice was not a welcome sight tonight. Some days are better than others, as is life. This morning I finally got my approval from the Medical Superintendant…the Doctor who first intimidated me and got mad that I hadn’t brought him my letter personally…anyway I had to send a permission slip of sorts to the IRB so they knew I wasn’t here intruding on anything at the hospital. I have been trying to get this form for a little over a month now so this was a glorious morning. The Secretary typed it out and showed it to him but he wanted to make a few changes and then he talked with me for about 15 minutes about my project and I got some great insights. With the conversation we had I might even be brave enough now to ask to sit in and observe in his consultations because I think that he might teach me a lot and he will definitely add a different dynamic to my study overall. We will see if he is willing to do that though, I’m not sure. Needless to say I was in the best mood after getting that letter on the Hospital letterhead, signed by the one and only Medical Superintendant so I skipped joyfully down to the MCH to show Jackie. She had also gotten her form signed that day so we were very happy. We laughed at the fact that it had only taken two months to get there, African time at its best. Awhile later I walked back up to the hospital because one of the nurses named Elvis had never heard of Elvis Presley so I was going to show him some music on my iPod. On my way in a tro tro pulled into the entrance of the hospital…the hallways are all outside so as you can imagine this is no big deal. Right as I was walking up, the trunk was opened and all I saw was a man’s mangled legs underneath the back seat. Two men ran around and started pulling the man out through the trunk. I watched for a minute but then started feeling woozy, I continued walking up past the tro tro and saw all the other bloodied people inside. A nurse was pulling a screaming child out of the window and I went into major crisis mode. My whole body wanted to jump around to the other side of the tro tro to help pull the people out to get them to Emergency ward but I was so paralyzed at the scene, not to mention that it was not my place to jump in. Some custodians were carting the stretcher, yes the ONE stretcher, back and forth to the Emergency Ward as the driver and man in the passenger seat of the tro tro grabbed people out and placed them on it. There was another group of people walking a woman to the ward who had blood covering her entirely from her head to toe. A wheelchair was quickly wheeled behind her and she was carted off as well. Everyone in the OPD was lining the hallways and people were coming out of their wards to take a peek at what all the commotion was. It was like a scene from a movie. I don’t know how many people there were total but after watching the scene unfold for a moment I went and stood by the head pharmacist to ask what had happened and he said that there was an accident with a taxi and a private car in Agona. He asked me if I noticed any police around and I said no. He then said “its not like your country…” and proceeded to talk about how there is no number to call, no emergency team to come running to the rescue to start treating the accident victims on sight…no, the people just have to hope that someone will take action and rush them to the hospital. He said that the police would not even be primarily interested about the lives, just about what happened to the cars. As I watched the tro tro driver and passenger pull the last person out and place them on the stretcher they both seemed to take a deep breath, looked at one another and nodded to the hospital staff as they got back into their tro tro with blood stained hands and clothes and drove away. I yelled after them to thank them for what they had done even though I know they had not heard me. This all happened in a matter of a few short minutes but it felt like much longer. I had such a tender place in my heart for those two men. They stepped up in a time of crisis with no regard for themselves and selflessly came to the rescue of those people involved in the crash. The taxi driver ended up dying but everyone else lived and those in the private car were physically unscathed by some miracle. Every day heroes are all around us. Those people are not only ones who save a life by pulling people out of a car crash and rushing to the hospital. They can be the person who gives us a smile when we are feeling down or the person who pays for our meal in the drive through. They may even do something for us that we never find out about but the goodness of human nature is incredible. There is a lot of destruction in our world certainly, but that does not mean that there is not a lot of growth and goodness and joy. Human beings are such an incredible creation, I learn about that more and more each day and I just cannot deny the fact that we have a Creator with an ultimate design for every one of us. I left the hospital just as some of the accident victims were being rushed into surgery while others were being placed in our ambulances to be rushed to Kumasi hospital because it has more advanced technologies and specialized Doctors. My fears about taxis and tro tros have now been heightened after seeing first hand what can happen in an accident but I know that I am supposed to be here so the Lord will protect me.As my own taxi pulled into Agona where the accident had taken place it seemed especially quiet. It is market day so that is a rarity but there was an eerie quiet unless it was just my imagination. We went to the café and got going with our emails and such but then the network stopped working so we took a break and got lunch and ran our errands in the market. Today was fun in the market unlike last week because it seemed much more subdued, and it was early afternoon so it wasn’t so crazy as it was when we were there last week. We also got passport photos so we could renew our Visas on our way back through Kumasi after our retreat we go on tomorrow…they are hysterical. There was just this tiny booth behind this little hut and a man had a huge old Polaroid camera and we each sat in that little booth and took our photos and he gave them to us in a piece of paper but they only cost us 2 cedi 50 pesewas for two which is much better than the 10 dollars it costs at Wal-Mart. 
King called us and said the network was back about 2 hours after we had left for our errands so we rushed back to the café but when we arrived it was back out. For the next 3 hours we sat there and the network went in and out the whole time so the other girls were not able to finish all their emails and such but somehow I got all my emails sent, my IRB stuff figured out, and my professor contacted so I was pleased. When we got home I read scriptures, Stripling Warriors today…so cool…and then took a little nap in the most interesting position ever as I pushed two chairs together to try to make a bed. I listened to Uchtdorf’s ‘Forget Me Not’ talk while I laid there and it is so good, it helped me to remember my value as a woman and to focus on what it is that is really important. The dishes were all sitting out on the shelf and I have started to ‘pack’ them away whenever they are out because it is the only thing I can do to help out around here. The light went out as we were eating dinner which was not entirely bad since I didn’t want to see what I was eating and so after we ate we went outside and the stars were magnificent. I just got out a mat and a sheet and laid them down in the middle of the courtyard and laid there listening to my iPod and watching the stars. I had the sheet wrapped around me so tight to protect from the mosquitoes and was cracking myself up with the thoughts that came to my head sometimes during the songs. My favorite moments were when Celine Dion songs would come on. I wanted to lay there and belt it out but I refrained. It felt like such a surreal experience as I laid there looking up at the stars through the laundry that hung on the lines all around me and I listened to Mama and Mavis speak in Twi through my music. I love those moments. I laughed at myself again when I walked inside to gather all my things and put them away in my room because I was using a candle and walking really slow so I didn’t drop anything and the Saturday’s Warrior song from the end came into my head as the last scene played in my head. Oh it was a wonderful day.

June 20, 2012
‘…And lo, I am with you always, even until the end of the world, Amen.’ Matthew 28:20 I believe… This scripture is the one which reminded me that everything was going to be okay last winter when I was scared out of my mind to actually be going to Africa without anything that was familiar to me. I was scared to come back with my 3 best friends all on missions, to come back to my final year of college, to leave America and everything I knew, to go conduct research on my own…I was a little bit afraid of it all. This scripture spoke to me as if Jesus Christ was saying these words directly to me, as if He was saying that as long as I allowed Him to be with me it didn’t matter where I went, He will always be with me. It was one of the most beautiful spiritual experiences I have ever had and I was just reminded of this scripture as I read it in a friend’s missionary email. This scripture has certainly manifested itself to me as my Lord has been with me throughout this whole journey and will continue to be for the rest of my life as long as I allow Him to be. That is such a beautiful reassurance; to know that I will never be alone, especially because I am really bad at being alone. I am the kind of person who wants to be surrounded by people always and though I of course have occasion where I just need to be alone, I would rather be surrounded by people I care about and can have fun and talk with at all times. That is why it’s hard here but also why I am so grateful for Nat, Cassie, and Jackie. They are my sanity. I got some stuff done this morning and then went to work to observe with one of the Doctors for a few hours. Compared to yesterday, today was not quite as exciting at work by any means so the day seemed to drag on a bit because malaria cases were sparse. Every day brings a little something though so whether it is a major break through in the way I am going to do something or witnessing the interaction of the Doctor with just one malaria patient, I need to count that as a success. One of my little friends, also named Akua, who is 15 comes over all the time and watches Mari Mar with us and Mama and today I was on my computer, she came over to watch me type. King said he likes to watch us type because we can type so fast. I can certainly type much faster than I even could before coming here because I do it so much every day but it was just funny to realize how something that seemed so trivial to me could be a matter of study for someone else. I asked if she wanted to see a picture of my family and we started looking through a bunch of random photos of family and friends. She loved it so much and I could tell she was just amazed because she had never seen so many things in my pictures before. She was talking to Mama about how she wants to go to America after that. I think it’s the same thing for Ghanaians as for many people with their desire to go to America. They want to see the world and though its not for touristy purposes, we as human beings always desire to know and experience that which we do not. We go to Cape Coast tomorrow and I am so excited, I need a break to re-motivate and rejuvenate!!

June 21, 2012
This morning we left home at 6:40 to embark on our journey to Cape Coast. We met Nat and Cass at the tro tro station in Agona and hopped right on. It was the most comfortable tro tro ever and it was such an enjoyable ride to Kumasi it felt like such luxury. We got money out at the bank and hopped in a taxi to head to the bus station for Cape Coast. We arrived at the bus station around 10 and headed out…all travel here requires many different steps and it’s a lot of hopping in and out and in and out. The bus was super long and had about 65 people in it. The ride was not bad in the beginning but after awhile the roads got REALLY bad. The last row of the bus, which we were on, was up higher than the others so every single pot hole hit so hard and we literally bounced out of our seats every time. The bus ride would have taken about 3 hours had we gone straight through but with stops every like 20 minutes it took about 6 hours. I had brought a book to read but turns out I had to watch and brace myself for the pot holes because I would bounce out of my seat and slam back down right on my tail bone which would send immense pain up my spine…sorry Dad looks like Im going to need that surgery on my slipped disk after all…(these bus seats were made out of the same sort of stuff that roller coaster seats are on by the way) it was like when DK slams down on his opponents in Super Smash Brothers. Anyway it was a painful ride but we found some joy in it and just started laughing when we would get thrown around. I literally almost did a front flip into the guys seat in front of me one time. There were some smooth parts where I was able to just sit and ponder and look out at the jungle as I listened to my iPod which I always enjoy. I get lost in my thoughts on the taxi/tro tro/bus rides here. The bus ride was only 6 cedi so I guess you get what you pay for here…most of the time. When we pulled into Cape Coast I had the same kind of feeling as I have when I drive to Southern California because it smelled like the ocean and there were palm trees everywhere…it of course was no Laguna Beach but it was fun to have that coast feeling. We finally made it to our guest house and we settled in. It was nice to lay on a real bed and we were excited to have a big sleepover in the night. We made some plans for the night and headed out to dinner at this restaurant on the beach.I don’t know why but I had imagined that it would be a bit different in Cape Coast than back home in Asamang…and of course it was but it was the same in that there were still shops lining the roads selling all the same things, children running around everywhere with no parents to be found, soccer games going on anywhere and everywhere…especially on the beach, and it was definitely still just like being in Ghana. We went to dinner at the Oasis restaurant which is right on the beach and after ordering Cassie and I went down to the ocean. It felt and smelled beautiful. Something about the ocean just makes me feel like I am home. 
It was an amazing sight because to our left was a group of young lads playing soccer as the waves washed up and behind them I could see the slave castle on the cliff and then to my right was the sun setting with the fishing boats all lined up in a row. As I took my first step into the Atlantic Ocean I half expected it to feel different somehow and I guess it did because unlike the Pacific Ocean it was SO warm but otherwise it was just the best feeling of familiarity as the ocean hit me! It was a beautiful feeling to have the sand under my toes and the salty water washing up my legs. Even the mist in the air which made my hands feel sticky from the salt made me so happy. It was a very clean beach too where we were which was a beautiful sight in itself because most everywhere in Ghana is just covered in trash. That is one thing that is so hard for me to see; beautiful places just littered with garbage. But the beach…ah it was breath taking and so incredibly refreshing!
I had the worlds best pizza, and I know it wasn’t literally but to me in my limited diet this summer, it was. I was overjoyed and I just devoured that thing so fast. It tasted so fresh and man it was just wonderful. After dinner we decided to explore the town a bit and we walked through the streets to a few key places that we had seen in our Bradt guide. It is very different here in the sense that though a few children here and there say ‘obruni’ and talk to you, they are used to seeing white people so we are not as much of a novelty. Because so many tourists come through here though there has been a precedent set for the children and they are even worse at begging and asking for things than children back in the villages. They are very persistent and if you don’t give them money or water saying that you don’t have any, which is what we have been told to do because we cant make it a point to give them everything when they ask for it because most of the time they don’t need it but they are under the impression that every white person should give them things, so anyway we just say that we don’t have money or water and at home it is fine and they stop asking but here they keep asking and following you. 

These two little girls were following me outside of the restaurant and asking for water and I told them that I didn’t have any, which was true, and they just kept following me saying ‘you are lying, give us water’. We understood when we walked past a line of children and a white girl with a package of crackers. They were just cycling through the line getting one cracker each…she really thought she was doing something nice for them but that honestly just creates a problem because these children are learning to rely on handouts from white people and are not working as hard to develop the skills that will allow them to succeed and get things for themselves. We walked down one street where hip lyfe music was blaring and tons of youngins were dancing their hearts out! We were on the other side of the street just looking at everything being sold and there was a row of women with all their fish but it was actually quite the refreshing site because the fish was fresh! There was crab and weird looking squid or octopus something or other and this sting ray/shark looking thing…so cool! I think it was all pretty fresh. It must be the fish that their husbands catch fishing in the morning and then the wives go sell it in their little markets. 

It didn’t even smell bad…or maybe it just didn’t smell as bad as the dried fish smells. I don’t know anymore. The best part was just smelling the fresh ocean air because most of the time in the villages it is either goat poop smell, garbage and sewer smell, nasty food smell, or just Africa smell. I have gotten used to it mostly but I had forgotten what fresh smelled like. Jackie and King went to go find somewhere to watch the Portugal vs. Ukraine game while Cassie, Natalie and I stayed on the street and started dancing with all the children. It is so fun to dance here, people dance anywhere and everywhere and hardly anyone is shy about it. The kids all stop dancing sometimes when we dance though because they like to watch us so we spend half the time just trying to get them to move with us and teach us new moves but it’s the best! We wanted to keep looking around after it got too crazy because the kids were blocking the street and the taxis were getting real mad so we continued down the street and circled back to the beach front just past the castle where there were a bunch of little huts that were total tourist shops but we were in heaven because it was all the Ghana trinkets we had been watching for. We met a man named Kaseim who just loved us because we were being so nice to him (most of the people who come are European and they are not as friendly, they rarely talk to us and we wave and smiling instantly feeling a camaraderie with them since we never see white people but like the Germans in Agona about a month ago, they are usually less than amused) in his shop and when we were leaving he gave us all a string of beads for free because he said he liked the way we spoke to him. Jackie texted us about then telling us where she and King had ended up so we walked up to meet them. It was dark about this time and walking around in an unfamiliar place after dark with 3 white girls alone, in Africa, seems kind of scary but that is what I love about Ghana; I never feel any fear here, even at night when it is super dark. I am always very aware of what is going on around me and I try not to be naïve and an easy target but it really is so safe here and I love that. We found the place and entered. It cost 50 pesewas to get in and as soon as we walked through the door way I could smell the men. African men have a distinctly different smell than American men. I can imagine what it is like from having brothers and the man smell back home is very different from Africa. Their sweat just has a very distinct odor. There were a ton of benches set up and probably about 300 men watching two large flat screen tvs at the front. Jackie and King had saved us a bench right in the middle and all eyes were on us as we walked in and sat down. I have become a very big fan of European futbol since being here because it is a huge part of Ghanaian culture. Not to mention the many, many attractive men that play so well. Its not a bad sport to watch by any means. It was just a few minutes before half time when we arrived so we still had a good while to watch the game. The men got so into it and so excited about the plays that it pumped us up a ton and by the end I was jumping off the bench when Portugal would score. I am rooting for Portugal to play in the finals because one of their star player, Ronaldo, is incredibly attractive but also an amazing soccer player. He is super fast and the goals he makes are sweet to watch. We are all giddy because it was so fun to watch and we were super into the game but also because we would just look around and laugh at where we were at that moment. I really enjoy being out and around the towns here at night because there is so much going on. Portugal did indeed win the game so we walked home elated and in the best moods, of course it was not just because Portugal won but it was a plus. We grabbed a fanmilk on the way home and smiled all the way. Sammos was about a 10 minute walk from the beach and everything so its in a great location. When we got back I wanted to take a shower so bad seeing as I haven’t taken a real one in 2 months but turns out the tap was not running. That put me in a real bad mood on top of the fact that we had to spend about 2 hours taking the plaits out of Jackie’s hair because I was super tired from the days travel and events and all I wanted to do was take a shower but I couldn’t. Then we realized we didn’t have a top sheet and there were no mosquito nets here so I got super scared and slept terribly because I was curled up with the sheet wrapped up around me from the side to try to cover my skin from the skeeters but waking up to a new day was glorious despite the fact that we went to bed at 2 and were woken up at 5 from all the people shuffling around and sweeping and turning on their music. There is no hope of sleeping in here unless noise doesn’t bother you. That’s when I stick my iPod in and hope I can fall back asleep to music. All in all, it was a great day!

June 22, 2012
We all tried to fall back asleep many times this morning because we were exhausted so we took our time getting up and going this morning. Around 8 we headed out to breakfast at this cool little restaurant that is run by an NGO called Baobabs. I was feeling a little strange this morning and I couldn’t tell if it was because I was just hungry and tired or if I just realized in the back of my mind that being here means that I do not have much time left in Ghana, either way I was just in a bit of a slump as we walked to breakfast. The menu looked so good and I was feeling like being healthy so I ordered a coconut lime smoothie and a vegetable omelet, both of which I was completely dissatisfied with because the coconut was super chunky and I couldn’t really taste the lime, nor was the omelet even hot and the other girls had all gotten these amazing looking pancakes with chocolate sauce and then pineapple and pure honey that looked and tasted like the best things ever and seeing as this whole trip revolved around our food, and the fact that I had been lacking variety for the past two months made me a little cranky. But that would have made me cranky at home too, I hate eating food I don’t like. But I think it is just magnified here, anyway the point is I was not in the best mood and I hate it when I am in a bad mood and I am really hard on myself because even though I know I don’t have to be happy all the time I try really hard to be so when I am not it makes me even more mad at myself so it is not the easiest of times. Luckily I was able to turn my mood around when we were looking around in the shop because we met some other tourists who lived in Accra. They are doing their Masters research this summer and are working with a Liberian refugee camp that the government is currently trying to dissolve and send back all the Liberians so it was super interesting to talk with them and one of the women went to BYU and grew up in Provo so it was fun to talk with her for a moment. After doing some good old window shopping and chatting with our new pals we headed over to the Cape Coast Slave Castle to start our tour. I was a tiny bit nervous to enter because I knew that it was going to be a pretty heavy experience but we walked on in. The fee for non-Ghanaians was way expensive but luckily we got the student rate so it was 7 cedi and King was only 50 pesewas but the guy just let him in for free. There were 2 other white girls that walked up behind us so they joined our group.The guy was trying to convince us to pay 20 cedi to take picture inside the Castle but that is the most ridiculous thing ever so we put our cameras away. I hate how everything is just about money, I know that is really what makes the world go round but sometimes its really dumb. We were directed toward a museum that had been made within the castle so that we could read up about some of the history while we were waiting for our tour to begin and right when we walked in King came up and whispered to us that one of the workers had just told him that we needed to be careful when entering the last room because there were some people there who didn’t like white people. I was a bit taken aback and kind of intimidated by that mainly because of where we were at that moment, though at the same time it seemed almost appropriate for the setting. Later that night as we were walking home Cassie started asking King about why there is not more animosity toward white people because of things like the slave trade and such, especially in Cape Coast where the castle is a constant reminder of the horrible injustice that happened there but King brought up a good point in saying that we, as human beings were made to love. People shouldn’t waste their time hating other people for any reason but especially concerning those things which they have no control over. We cant change history, and we cant change the fact that the British here in Cape Coast, and the Portugese in Elmina just about 40 minutes away, treated human beings as animals here, but we can change the way that we treat one another now. A man came and got us after awhile and we went with the 2 white girls, 2 Ghanaian men, and 2 Asian women to the entrance to the men’s dungeon with our tour guide. He started off with some history about the castle and its origins along with details of when the slave trade ended and briefly talked about its impact on the world. To the left of the entrance there is a plaque on the wall that says something about how President Obama and his wife visited during a certain year and at first I was confused about why they got a plaque there but later on we learned that Michelle Obama had traced some of her ancestors back to this slave castle so they had come to honor them. Before we even walked down into the dungeon I had this eerie feeling because I felt like I was walking on somewhat sacred ground. The men, women and children who passed through here had to give up their freedom just because of the color of their skin and they were subjugated by those who felt they were superior, it is a disgusting part of our history and I was ashamed to think that human beings can treat one another in such a way.

 It is something that I will simply never understand. I was made to love. I know that because I can never be mad at anyone even when they do something that really hurts me. I just know that every human being is so loved by God and imagining treating someone poorly is just not in my nature at all. I don’t have the time or the energy to lay out all the details right now but it was just such a sobering and a disturbing experience all at the same time. These people were not even treated like human beings and they were pushed around like they were someone’s property. It is very good to learn about though and I really wish everyone could get opportunities to experience things like this because I think there would be a larger emphasis on getting rid of the enslavement that still goes on today. After the castle we went and looked through all the shops which were sweet but we didn’t buy anything because we wanted to look at every single shop in the town before buying anything to make sure we could get the best things for us at the best prices. The sellers are super pushy and try to get you to buy everything in sight so its kind of annoying but it is fun to see all the traditional statues and masks and figurines and such. When we were done with the shopping we went down to the beach to look at all the fisherman and to just stare out at the ocean for a little bit on the steps that the slaves walked down to go out to meet the ships at the shore. Down below the platform there was a group of young men playing soccer. I watched them for a little bit because it looked so fun not to mention the fact that they were all ripped. Most of the young men here are so strong because they dance and play soccer and pound a lot of fufu and their backs are so toned. 
Not a bad sight I’d say. After awhile we walked up to dinner at the castle restaurant and sat in a corner table that had a straight view of the ocean. Right upon sitting down the ocean breeze rushed in and hit us for our entire stay and it was the best to be chatting and laughing while feeling the breeze and looking out as the sky turned to dusk and the tide came in. I love the beach. 
Jackie, Natalie, and I ordered these sandwiches which sounded so good but turned out to be the worlds worst and weirdest things. Luckily I had gotten an appetizer of spring rolls as well because those became my meal and they were so good. Cass got some chicken coconut curry that was super good so I had a few bites of that to get a yummy taste in my mouth and all in all dinner was great. It was pretty late when we got done so we headed back to go to bed since we had to be up really early the next morning. When we walked into the lobby we were talking to our pal Kofi who works there and a white woman walked in looking very frazzled. She started talking to us and she was from Belgium and had traveled to Ghana by herself. She was in her 30s and was not married and had gone to Thailand by herself a few times and thought it would be a good idea to come to Ghana by herself but she had been up in her room crying because she was scared so she was so relieved to see us. We made plans for her to come to the National Park with us the next morning. The tap still was not running but somehow there was a staff shower downstairs that was working, and by the showers working I mean that they trickled out in a stream of water that was like that of a hose. Nonetheless, Nat and I headed down to shower and the room was lined with rocks and cement and there was no light so we held the door a bit cracked open for each other so it wasn’t completely pitch dark in there and chatted about our experiences and anticipation for the fall while we did and looking back at the tiny dark little room I was actually in with Natalie propping the little wooden door open so I could have a sliver of light was a hysterical experience but I got to wash my hair so that was glorious. We all went up to the roof of the guesthouse where there was a bar and games and such and we just chatted about our plans for the next day and we ordered breakfast so it would be ready on time for us the next morning. Some more white people walked up, there was a group doing research in Accra, different from the others we met. There were three Canadian girls and one American boy and they made plans to join us the next day. King’s other friend King David who worked at the hotel was up with us too and there were a lot of laughs all around. It was hysterical talking to this woman, she is so great and I am super happy that we were able to find her because she was so happy to have people to explore with. We went to bed early so that we could wake up early to get going to the National Park the next day and as is usual every night before bed we were just lying in bed laughing hysterically at everything going on. It was like a little girls sleepover where everything is funny even though it really isn’t. Love these girls. 

 June 23, 2012
Today was honestly one of the best days I have ever had. Not one second of it was a dud and there was a constant flow of joy and adventure and laughter. From 6 am to 3 am there was not a dull moment and it was the worlds best! We met Innaka and the others on the roof at 7 for breakfast and it was beautiful. My favorite view of the beach was really misty and it looked so cool as the sun was not entirely risen and the breakfast we ate was so good. I had pancakes with bananas and sugar as well as some cheesy scrambled eggs and it all tasted so good so I was happy and full. We all gathered downstairs and figured out a few more logistics about what to do after we did the National Park and then we hopped in cabs. The Canadian group took a private cab to the park but that was going to be expensive so we drove to the tro tro station and hopped on a tro tro. Cassie and I got the front which we’ve never done before and it was a comfortable ride and we had great conversations as we drove. We arrived about an hour and a half later at the park and hopped out. The entrance fee through the initial gate was 1 cedi a person and people were lined up selling things outside. We walked in and walked up a large hill and saw the ticket office. We walked in and purchased our tickets for the student price at 15 cedi and waited with the Canadian group and a group of girls from Ireland who are here doing their Medical School internships. We were a bit intimidated when we walked up because they were all wearing super cute clothes, makeup, and had their hair done. On the one hand I wished that I could dress up sometimes but on the other hand I am so glad that I never have to dress up here because I just get dirty and sweaty all day so I don’t know what I would do if I was trying to be cute because I would just hate it. It was one of the first real times that I really missed my closet back home and the variety of getting to choose my clothes every day. Not to mention the way that I get to express myself and my mood through the way that I dress. I think that the biggest thing that I miss from being here in so many aspects is just the lack of variety I experience in so many different aspects of living this life. We waited for the group to be ready and besides King and a few other Ghanaian men, two of which who were guides, our whole group was white tourists. In addition to all us students there was a couple among whom the wife was an Anthropology professor and they were here doing some research this summer too. It is so cool to meet people from across the globe all coming to a similar place to do similar things. I really admire all these people because we are all here learning and growing in such profoundly different ways than others who are off experiencing other things. It just creates an instant connection, especially when you are all experiencing things together. The guide started us out and we walked up a long series of steps through the regenerated forest. I of course, being the nature and adventure freak that I am, wanted to soak in every minute so I was being very slow and our group ended up in back of everyone and they were always way far ahead waiting for us at the next spot where the guide wanted to tell us about a certain thing here or there. He showed us these poisonous millipedes and soldier ants that can kill you and the tree where tea tree oil comes from. That reminded me of grandma big time so I took some of the sap on my finger and rubbed it on my wrist so I could continue smelling it. I wish I could have just harvested some for you granny!! 
We continued on until we got to this platform where we embarked on our canopy walk. I was expecting the rope bridges to be much higher than they were but that was just from my perception because some people who were afraid of heights couldn’t finish and had to take a short cut because they thought it was so high. I love love love heights so I was having the best time just rannin around up on the bridge. I wanted to be last so that I could take my time and not worry about stalling the people behind me. The guides insisted on staying behind me but for the first two bridges they kept saying “I am waiting for you” so I told them that if they didn’t want to wait they should go ahead of me because I was going to take my time and experience it fully. 

They eventually did go ahead of me as I expected. It was incredible to walk around on these rope bridges up in the canopy of the rainforest where you could see so far from the tops of the trees. We heard monkeys and saw butterflies but that was all in the way of wildlife. I didn’t care though because I felt so free up in the trees just rannin around and jumping and swinging and laughing and the girls and I, plus Carl the American boy who hung around with us the whole time, were having so much fun and I am so glad that we didn’t just rush through because its not just something that I wanted to check off my list like some. I wanted to embrace the experience and enjoy it for all that it was worth. And I did. I cannot even describe my emotions but I was truly elated to be up in the trees running and jumping on the rope bridges. I was having the most beautiful time enjoying the sight I was seeing and the adventure of being so high above the ground was a thrill. I am so thankful that I have been blessed with such an enthusiasm for life and experiences because I have been able to take every day and every experience for what it is worth and I will not regret one day spent or one experience had because I have gotten so much out of every single thing that I have done here. 
It is so cool. I think the walk took us about 20 minutes more than everyone else but it was so worth it. When we were done we headed down and as we were walking down hundreds and hundreds of school kids were walking up the path in their uniforms so I am so glad we went when we did because it certainly would have been a different experience had we been shoved through by tons of kids. We caught a taxi going back the other way to Hans cottage where there were crocodiles so we could see the crocs and eat lunch. The first taxi wanted 20 cedi but we just laughed and moved on and one came along that charged us each 1 cedi so we were happy about that. When we arrived at Hans cottage it was funny because there were a ton of super dressed up Ghanaians who you could tell were just on a trip with all their friends, definitely the Ghanaian elite of sorts. There were also a lot of other white folk there. We were nervous that we wouldn’t see any crocodiles but right as we walked out onto the first part, the restaurant itself is over the water, we spotted a crocodile lounging in the sun. We thought it was fake at first because it was not moving and its mouth was just stuck open but we got closer and could see it breathing. This is such an amazing creature. 
Definitely the closest thing we have to dinosaurs on earth today I think. King said there were crocodiles we could sit on and we were so surprised that we hurried over to the other side of the restaurant where people were sitting above crocs and taking pictures touching it. It cost 2 cedi and I would have rather spent that on food so I didn’t do it but Nat and Cass did and it was so cool. They really do look fake but not when you are above them and they move. The way they walk is so funny but apparently they are super fast and I was a bit nervous one of them would run after me at some point but these crocs are so used to people so I don’t think that would actually happen. 
There was one who was taking its picture with a huge group of school kids though and it was moving the whole time and Cass and I were watching about to die because it looked like it was just trying to get into the right position to strike and when the younger kids would take their pictures with them I was sure he was going to flip up and strike, but he didn’t. The only defence is a stick that the trainer lady has to feed the crocs. These things cannot be tamed. They would go in and out of the water taking turns taking pictures with people and at one point we were surrounded with crocs on our left and right while another swam in the water in front of us. It was so cool. We ate on the roof and all got spring rolls and this amazing fresh passion fruit juice. We hung out here for awhile just chatting and enjoying watching the crocodiles and then headed out. Waiting for taxis we saw the most beautiful Rasta couple ever. They were perfect. Rastafarianism is definitely a religion which is apparent here. There are a ton of Rasta people around here and on the coast. On the taxi ride back we passed a stake center and it was probably about the fifth church we had seen. The growth of the church in Cape Coast is wonderful. We got back to the guest house and took a little rest for about a half hour and then headed back out to all the shops so we could finish getting gifts for all our families. It was the best time and we were all just running back and forth between all the stores giddy about our purchases and the prices we were getting things for. Of course we don’t really know how we are going to get it all home but clothes will be sacrificed and thrown out in order to make room for them surely. All my clothes are pretty much ruined anyway so I am leaving most of them here. Finding the perfect gift for someone is the best feeling ever. I am so not a gift person and it is usually really hard for me to find things that I want to give people because I never want to give them things they won’t like but let me tell you I found the best things and it made me so excited to give them to those I love. I can’t wait! The girls and I were seriously just feeding off of each others energy all day and were laughing hysterically through it all. The dynamic of our group is such a beautiful thing and I am so grateful for the friendship that I have built with each and every one of them. Building relationships with people is so valuable in this world. Once we had been to every shop about 5 times and gotten all our trinkets we headed back to the guest house to put them away and sit down for a minute before dinner. King had been at the beach playing soccer with the guys this whole time so we weren’t worried about him because he was having a blast. We had planned to meet up with Carl, the Canadian girls, King David, and Innaka that night for dancing at this bar called the Hacienda and we laughed when we got back to our hotel thinking how everyone would probably be dressed up in their dresses but we were just wearing the same thing we had worn at Kakum to do the Canopy walk. Livin the life in Africa I tell ya. Cass and I left the hotel a bit earlier than the others and were just going to meet them at Baobabs for dinner because she and I had to pick up some things that were being finished for us from the shops. Yesterday and today the street was really hoppin because an NGO had come and painted a walkway along the road for the school children to use to walk to school because it is dangerous on the curve with all the taxis and such so there was a cultural performance going on right in front of the castle and we stopped to watch for a little bit. There were a ton of drums and dancing and it was so cool. Some of the moves reminded me of the African dance units we had at Roseville High but obviously this was the real deal. It was very fun to watch and little kids were all just clinging onto me as I stood there loving every minute of it. After awhile we went over to the restaurant and ordered. Cass and I ran back to get all our stuff and then came back. I got the chicken coconut curry with fries and it was just as good as when Cassie had it so I was super happy. We ate dinner really late so by the time we were done it was time to walk over to the bar. On the way there we met some little friends who were so cute. We started dancing with them and then one of the performers from before came up to us and started showing us acrobatics and taught us a dance sequence. His name was LaFiya and he was super spunky. He came with us to the club and at first we were the only ones there that were dancing but then a ton of people came and it was the best time ever.
We were learning the hip lyfe dances and doing Azonto and bringing in a little spin of our own and man I worked off so many calories. It was so fun to watch King dance too because he is incredible. He is just in the zone when he is dancing and the way he moves is unlike anything I have ever seen. King David was awesome too so with the two Kings and LaFiya we were just having the best time. The Canadian girls and Carl met us there but they just sat down and had drinks while we danced. Innaka danced a lot too and she was cracking me up. The African men kept trying to dance with us but we would just wiggle away. 

At one point though I was dancing to a song and I started getting super into it and was just having the best time and all of a sudden this one guy got so excited and picked me up with my hands pinned behind my back and was jumping around. I couldn’t do anything but scream and laugh at the same time and King came and saved me. I wish I could have had that on tape because we were all laughing so hard that we had to go out of the bar because I could not contain my screams or my laughter. The whole bar and dancing experience was just the best and before we knew it, we had been there dancing for about 2 hours. We decided to go over to the Oasis so we could be on the beach and there was another dance party there but unlike the Hacienda where we were the only white people and it was just so fun, this place was tourist central and the whole place reeked of weed.

 That was not an unusual smell for these parts but it was so funny. We walked in and sat down so we could get Fantas or something but then a popular new hip lyfe song called ‘chop my money’ came on so we jumped up and started dancing and continued for about another hour. We got drinks at the bar and the group of people there was hilarious. There were some white people working at the bar and you can tell that they have spent their whole summer drinking and smoking weed because it is all they talked about. I got tired and wanted to go out to the beach so I asked the guys to escort us down and to the water. There was a group of kids building a bonfire on the beach and it looked like the best time. As I stood looking out at the ocean I realized that I was never going to have this opportunity again and that I wanted to just run in and swim in the ocean. I went and handed Innaka my purse and told the other girls that I was going to run in. Innaka and King David freaked out at that because they said it was too dangerous but I had seen so many kids go out swimming in this water that I was not worried. It would have been different had I actually swum out because there was a really strong undertoe but I just wanted to run in knee deep and let the waves splash over me and so I did. 

Jackie and Natalie joined me and it was so fun! We just played around in the water and let the waves wash over us and it was so warm. I had the time of my life and I loved tasting the salt on my lips. I love the ocean so much! When we walked out and finally were ready to live we realized that it was almost 2 o’clock in the morning. It was the first night since being here that I have actually felt like a college student because most nights I am in bed by 10 and the only people around who are my age are the girls and King. It was the BEST! Walking back through the town we were all just filled with pure joy looking back on the events of the day. It was truly a beautiful one filled with so so so much happiness and many beautiful experiences. Not to mention the fact that I was soaking wet and covered in sand but not the least bit cold. I love it here. After showering in the dark cave shower again we finally went to bed around 3. 


June 24, 2012
Luckily for us, we ran into the missionaries on Friday night walking home because they told us about the ward that started at 11. We slept in as late as we could with all the noise outside and then got ready to go. We went up to Baobabs for the good pancakes around 9 and they were so good. Two of us ordered chocolate banana ones and the other two ordered pineapple honey ones so we could all have one of each and they were so good! Service here is nothing like in America and it takes about an hour to get your food every time so we finished just in time to walk over to the church. We arrived at a beautiful building right before 11 but as it turns out the meeting didn’t actually start until 11:30. The missionaries are used to giving people a 30 minute window because of African time so that is why they said it started at 11. African time is way worse than Mormon Standard Time I tell ya. It was great to just be in that building because it felt like such a solace from the world and we realized why everyone thinks that people get rich when they become members of the church; their appearance increases a ton. There are of course people who value fashion but I don’t think a lot of people can afford to worry about such a thing here so there is a huge assortment of the type of dress here and it is often not super gender sensitive nor is it something that is entirely valued but seeing the way everyone dressed at church made sense. The men in their white shirts and ties and the women in their beautiful dresses…it just makes sense. It was a large room which made it feel even more like a sacrament meeting because ours is tiny and the pulpit was raised with the wooden panels all behind the stand…it was the most familiar thing ever and it felt beautiful to just be sitting in that chapel. The missionaries came in and talked with us for a moment and there was a really tall one who was white and had freckles and it made me miss boys a lot. Don’t worry, I didn’t flirt with him, I tried not to talk to him actually because I knew that I would if I had started to talk with him since I have been so boy deprived outside of the crazy vivid dreams I have every night thanks to the doxy. The bishop greeted us and then the meeting started. There were two men who could play the piano and the hymns sounded so beautiful so once again during the Sacrament hymn I was so close to tears because I felt so incredibly grateful for the church and for my Savior and just the fact that I could go to church and take the sacrament there. It was beautiful. Not to mention the people gave their talks half in English half in Twi so I actually knew what was going on. It was just a beautiful beautiful church experience. We headed home after that to get a sheet and shorts so we could go down to the beach. It was not sunny which was sad but the breeze felt so good so we all just laid on the sheet with our feet in the sand, the sound of the waves, and the breeze and had a big group meeting talking about our experiences so far and what we need to work on in our research and such. We talked about our biggest accomplishments overall and we all said that our top was the spiritual growth we have experienced here. Jackie commented on how that is not usual for a Field Study experience. Many people do experience spiritual growth on Field Studies but that is individual and they do it on their own. The fact that we did it together from the very beginning with our goal to read the Book of Mormon and our constant spiritual discussions gave us all such strength and we have helped one another to grow in the ways that we have which is so cool. It is just another testimony to me of how the Lord places people in our lives who He knows will help us to learn and grow toward eternal progression. When it started to sprinkle and get a bit cold we decided to head up to get some lunch. The two places we most wanted to go close at 2 on Sundays so we had to go to this other place and it was a vegan place but we ordered potato chips, meaning French fries but what we got were the most disgusting fried vegan something or other and aw man it was awful. The lady who owned the place was a crack up and we were laughing so hard the whole time we were there but what we got was just sick! We were going to go back to the beach after that but it was getting dark and cold so we decided to just head back to the guest house. I showered in one of the real showers because the tap was running though it was still just a hose trickle and the power went off in the middle of my shower. Luckily it was still a bit light out but washing my hair once again was glorious. We headed up to the roof at 6 to order dinner and played Skip Bo for about an hour as we waited for it. I got pasta salad and eggs and it was super good. The pasta salad tasted so fresh and my favorite view of the beach with a boat was right to my left as we played cards. My mom called during dinner so I paused and went down to chat with her for awhile and then we played a few more games on the roof until going back down. We packed up everything and giggled in our beds for a good hour and a half before actually going to sleep. We were leaving early the next morning so we wanted to just wake up and be ready. All in all, it was a beautiful trip and such a needed retreat. 






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